Notes

BED SIZES

Twin = 39 x 75.
Twin XL = 39 x 80.
3/4 Size = 47 1/2 x 75.
Full = 53 x 75.
Full XL = 53 x 80.
Queen = 60 x 80.
Super Queen = 66 x 80.
California King = 72 x 84.
King = 76 x 80.

Thomas J. Watson - WoodDorker

tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 (webpage)

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Posted By Joel Templin on September 05, 19100
NKBA guidelines say you need 19" of knee space at a 30"
height, 15" at a 36" height and 12" at a 42" height.
These are awfully generous guidelines though, you don't
need that much. You can safely cut those down by 3" or so.

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Lacquer

I got used to Valspar's no fuss catalyzed lacquer. Its great stuff, no thinning, and quick dry with minimal lingering smell... The quick buildup is almost too quick on porous woods (e.g. oak and ash), the finish looks thicker than it is, almost plastic-like

Colored lacquer is another story and the following is mostly notes to myself. I have to thin the finish coat almost 50% (20 sec. viscosity) and use my smaller tip. It drys too fast no matter what and the smaller tip produces a better finish (the big tip @ ~20% is doable just not as nice, probably good for the first coat...small tip cap helps. If its a thick enough coat, it flows out pretty good).

...The clear has a 17 sec. viscosity and that viscosity provides the best finish with any coating sprayed through my gun (small tip and cap).

...While it provides the best finish I've found a compromise for colored lacquer. I now use a medium tip and fine cap. I split a gallon into two cans. For primer I add thinner to the bottom of the bail bosses and for paint I add thinner to the middle of the bosses. I've found that double coating (one coat immediately followed by another) slows the drying and levels out better. If I push just to the edge of getting runs, paying a lot of extra attention near the edges, I don't need another coat. I prep the surface with a good solid coat of primmer and sand it out with 220 on a random orbital. Not having overly thin areas (transparency) is important.

See also: The Fine Points Of Viscosity (woodweb) and Viscosity & Wet Mils (furniturefinishwizard).
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Metal drawer slides/sides

Metabox (per specs): Bottom = Interior width - 31mm X runner length -2mm, Bottom offset = 17mm, Face top/side offset = 8.5mm.

Old Hafele (using): Bottom = Interior width - 30mm X runner length -1mm, Bottom offset = 12mm (...15.5?), Face top/side offset = 5.5/8.5mm (e.g. 32 - reveal + 5.5 from top edge of face and 8.5 + overlay from side. HO 36/17).

Drawer t/b clearances (incomplete/random/messed up)
System to _bottom_ of slide/side (clearance): Metabox 19-19.5, Old Hafele 17.5-18, New Hafele 19.5-20
... should be ledge up to closest system (offset) and system up to slide/side bottom (typ 32 - offset +2 for screws/slide thickness)
Unigrass 11.5 (specs)/18.5
System to bottom of slide panel member (mounting): 17.5 (old Hafele and Blum bottom mount)
System to roller clearance (drawer removal): 19.5 (new Hafele), 23(.5) (old Hafele and Blum bottom mount), 28 (Unigrass, per specs)
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Thick edgebanding

If it works out make 2" wide for 1-5/8 and 7/8 x 2. To make 2.5mm thick banding, using a thick rip blade and 11/16 stock, rip @ 4.5mm (3 pcs). Real number is closer to 4mm but the fence is set for slightly thinner blades. Bander guillotine @ 4 millibars does fine. Looks like this is max wood thickness for the 1432-CPB, the fir is doing some cracking as it rounds the pressure roller.

I'm not real happy with the bond on 2.5mm stock, even when using 80 grit (...Richter uses 40 grit on thick banding) on the back side and a higher glue temp at the nozzle. Need to try primer.
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Links

Shelves

Shelf Design Guidelines: Maximum No-Sag Spans for Various Shelf Materials and more. For a 3/4" thick x 10" deep shelf w/ 20lbs per foot (Sagulator results in parenthesis).

   Plywood - 32" (.05")
   Particleboard - 26" (.21")
   Yellow pine - 36" (.05")
   Red oak - 44" (.13)

There's also a The Sagulator deflection calculator. Example: 10" deep, 3/4" thick, 36" span w/ 60lbs (e.g. books @ 20(-25)lbs per foot):

   Plywood - .09"
   MDF - .30"
   Melamine - .41"
   Solid wood - .06-9"

In my experince MDF has more flex (at least in the short term) than Melamine particleboard. The Sagulator doesn't show much difference between soft and hardwood and seems a bit high on particleboard/MDF.

Woodworking Tips via Email #1: Shelving Spans includes consideration of 1x2" face edging. Examples for 10" deep x 3/4" thick bookshelf.

   Particle Board - 24" (.08)
   Plywood - 30" (.04)
   Solid (13/16") - 36" (RO .04)

Aug '06: After experimenting with some rather complex shelf reinforcement (threaded tension rod) I've settled on a 3/4" build-down with 1/8 x 9/16" matching slots - in the bottom of the shelf and the top of the build-down strip - that accommodate 1/8 x 1" steel. The steel/shelf is pretensioned with 1/8" dowel, an inch or two on each end and, on the opposite/bottom edge, an inch or two in the center. I use spring clamps to hold the pieces together while the glue cures. With MDF a piece of angle-iron between the clamps and MDF is needed to create some tension, minimize MDF flex and keep the slight camber a fair curve. With MDF the double edged face ultimately means no visible seams. With plywood or particleboard I use 2mm edgebanding (and a 2mm radius on the edge) to cover the face. I don't know the potential capacity, but, with a 42" span loaded with books, there is still a slight crown to the shelf.
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Standard Furniture Dimesions: Not all of them can really be called 'standard' but they are a good starting point. Bookshelves range all over the place. In looking for some library standards, 46" and 84" tall x 10" or 12" deep seems pretty common. Dictionary and atlas stands are a bit shorter @ 44" tall.

...Their workstation height of 26" is a bit low, they're typically 29.5 - 30.5". Their chest width of 36" is probably OK for dressers. My experience is that 24" is an awkward inside width for dresser drawers, 18 and 27" should make better use of space (folded jeans, T-shirts, etc.).

There's also a clean and simple pdf ()
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